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Watchmakers give new definition to two-tone watches

Watchmakers give new definition to two-tone watches

From the classic gold and silver execution to new-age alchemy mix-and-match, watchmakers are giving two-tone watches a new definition.

Pictured above: Hublot Square Bang Unico King Gold Blue Ceramic

Before the Hublot Square Bang Unico, square-shaped watches were absent from Hublot’s portfolio of watches since the day the brand was founded. That narrative changed two years ago after the surprise debut of the Hublot Square Bang Unico. After initial renders in darker tones, this year’s iteration takes on a brighter shade as colours and materials are fused in harmony. Hublot’s proprietary King Gold occupies the mid-section of the modular square case with alternating satin- and polish-finishing, while the top bezel is fashioned from micro-blasted and polished blue ceramic. From there, a sandwich dial construction with a sapphire dial offers views and sensations of depth to the HUB1280 UNICO movement. The column wheel chronograph movement features a Column Wheel Flyback Chronograph with a weekend-proof three-day power reserve.

Omega Constellation 41 mm Co-Axial Master Chronometer

Watchmakers Give New Definition to Two-Tone WatchesA trio of materials come together in the Omega Constellation, a collection that has long been inspired by the precise movement of the stars. Apart from precision, elegance was another hallmark of the Omega Constellation — as evidenced by its sophistication and refinement. This year’s release amplifies the celestial theme using unique dials crafted from meteorites. Several meteorites are being used for such dials, but Omega’s Muonionalusta meteorite is possibly the oldest known meteorite on Earth, at over 4.5 billion years old. Widmanstätten patterns of the meteorite are prized for their random orientations, as no two dials will ever be the same. Omega treated the meteorite dial with a rhodium-grey galvanic colour while PVD-coated hands, indices and Constellation star aid in legibility. The monochromatic display extends to the case as seen in the signature Constellation bezel, claws and half-moon facets crafted from black ceramic and a silvery stainless steel case and bracelet. Omega’s famed and highly respected Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8900 provides best-in-class chronometric performance.

Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon

Beyond outward appearances and aesthetics, Zenith prides its watchmaking artistry on the core of timekeeping — accuracy. Fronting that stance is the manufacture’s famed El Primero chronograph calibre, regarded for its high operating frequency that translates into greater accuracy. One of the latest incarnations of the El Primero comes in the vein of the El Primero 9020 calibre with its double tourbillon configuration housed in the Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon. The first manages the watch’s main timekeeping operations at 36,000 VpH, while the other is for the 1/100th of a second chronograph operating at 360,000 VpH. Given the extreme levels of performance, a highly technical carbon fibre case protects the calibre from external damages. Black striations characteristic of carbon fibre are contrasted by a sandblasted matte rose gold twelve-sided bezel and chronograph pusher protectors. Its open dial, featuring applied chronograph counters and tinted transparent sapphire elements, allows for an unobstructed view of the groundbreaking movement and its two tourbillon mechanisms with star-shaped cages.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

Watchmakers Give New Definition to Two-Tone WatchesTAG Heuer made a splash in 1978 when it presented its first generation dive watch, the 1000 Series model. The collection expanded in 1982 with the introduction of the 2000 Series — characterised by stylish elements to captivate a wider audience — before being renamed as the Aquaracer in 2004. After countless iterations involving a variety of styles, colours, materials and movements, TAG Heuer’s all-terrain, adventure-ready tool watch, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200, takes a luxurious spin with a two-tone steel and gold bi-colour finish. The stainless steel case and solid 18K 3N solid yellow gold bezel combine to push the boundaries of sports watches and lend a touch of sophistication and elegance to the otherwise rugged tool watch. A blue fumé sunray-brushed dial grounds the timepiece, providing an air of seriousness that instils confidence when on the go. Within the watch lies TAG Heuer’s trusted workhorse movement — the Calibre 5 Automatic movement — to ensure optimum performance.

Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum

Bell & Ross’ newest technical exponent is a step of evolution that elevates the Bell & Ross BR 05. The Bell & Ross BR-X5 spots a similar blueprint — albeit a touch more complex — to reflect the prowess of Bell & Ross. A multilayer case assembly focuses on lightness as Bell & Ross’ proprietary photoluminescent quartz fibre composite material — LM3D — alternates with grade 2 micro-blasted black DLC titanium. With visibility a cornerstone of Bell & Ross timepieces, the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum diffuses a resplendent shade of green in the dark as the LM3D structure glows. On the dial, photoluminescent materials are incorporated into the hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve indications for uncompromised low-light readability. The technical superiority of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 extends within the case as it utilises the BR-CAL.323 calibre, a prestigious manufacture movement designed by Kenissi that raises the watch to new heights of precision with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

Watchmakers Give New Definition to Two-Tone WatchesTake to the skies and beyond in style with the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Inspired by the first dual-time zone wristwatch manufactured by Longines in 1925 — which bore the Zulu flag — the Longines Spirit Zulu Time is imbued with true GMT functionality. However, the watch’s highlight in this iteration lies in the eye-catching 18K yellow gold bi-directional rotating bezel and crown. A chocolate brown ceramic insert with a gilt GMT track complements the gold accents with an aesthetic appeal that is as impressive as the watch’s functions and performance. The automatic in-house calibre L844 allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the GMT indicator. Additional time zones are read using a 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotating ceramic bezel graduated over 24 hours. Further to that, Longines implemented a silicon balance spring for the movement for greater reliability and is chronometer-certified by the COSC (the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). The Longines Spirit Zulu Time measures 39mm across and features a 100m water-resistant stainless steel case. An interchangeable steel bracelet or leather strap is available, with the latter fitted with a folding clasp and a new micro-adjustment system for maximum comfort and a perfect fit.

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph

Form meets function in the Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph. Widely regarded as one of the most popular complications, the chronograph brings greater functionality to adventurers to the cult favourite outdoor-ready Rado Captain Cook collection. The appearance of the Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph does not deviate from the handsome, neo-vintage package that won the hearts of many. Characteristic touches such as the boxed sapphire crystal, sloped bezel, hour index shapes and rotating dial anchor hark back to the original Captain Cook design. The inclusion of the chronograph hand and counters does not feel out of place, as the newly positioned date aperture at six o’clock lends a contemporary symmetry to the dial layout. A polished 43mm stainless steel case exudes a rugged elegance, typified by yellow gold PVD streaking through the central bracelet links, bezel, crown and pushers. Inside, a new and slimmer R801 automatic movement powers the watch and allows for a slimmer case construction for better wear comfort. A technically advanced Nivachron hairspring is optimised for resistance against magnetic fields with its complex material composition, bringing greater timekeeping performance while journeying in style.

Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea

The Breitling Chronomat South Sea Capsule collection exudes tropical bliss with a vibrant execution, headlined by a two-tone watch case and exquisite gemstones. Inspired by the tropical paradise of golden beaches, aquatic depths, vibrant flora, and lush greenery, the otherwise masculine Breitling Chronomat takes a daintier approach with its 36mm case. The softer approach opens new possibilities for the capsule collection as the time-only version offers a cleaner dial execution and slimmer case profile for effortless wearing. In capturing the biodiversity of flora and fauna, the deep green dial and multi-coloured gemstones on the bezel reflect the landscape’s colours. An 18K red gold bezel further ups the watch’s preciousness, with matching coloured watch hands, indices and crown complementing the warm accents. Robustness and durability are not sacrificed as the Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea retains the original active and sporty DNA of the Chronomat, protected by a 100m water-resistant case. Breitling’s iconic and comfortable steel and red gold Rouleaux bracelet is available for those who prefer a more discreet option than the green alligator strap.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our April 2024 issue.