Editor's Pick, Time

These watches with amazing inner workings wield great power

These watches with amazing inner workings wield great power

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO

Famed for creating otherworldly watches, MB&F presents its most complicated model to date in the form of the ready-for-action Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO. It proudly features a zirconium case – a metal with material properties that surpass stainless steel and titanium, a monobloc shock-absorbing system called “FlexRing” to protect the perpetual calendar movement from life’s daily knocks and blows, an integrated strap for the smoothest wearing experience and a case design that boasts openness with great clarity of not just the calendar indications but also cinematic play of the engine components. Despite retaining the 44 x 17.5mm sizing retained of its previous iteration, the new EVO shows off a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal flows right into the case. The first for any MB&F, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is water-resistant to 80 metres made possible by its screw-down crown.


Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton

The Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton features a suspended three-dimensional movement, offering a new level of elevation to the watch. Measuring at 44.8mm, it is powered by the hand-finished, openworked Calibre MB M18.69, which can be viewed from the anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both the front and back of the watch’s polished 18-carat rose gold case. The 188 hand-assembled components show off a combination of artisanal finishing such as circular graining, mirror-polishing and bevelling performed by Montblanc’s expert craftsmen. What’s more, each of the movement’s 420 inner angles requires absolute prowess in order to achieve the desired aesthetic outcome. The 18-carat gold and Grand Feu enamel dial – with 18-carat rose gold leaf hand and minute hands – located at 12 o’clock and, the tourbillon and sub-dial at 6 o’clock create a balanced overall layout.


Cartier Tank Asymétrique

Having reinterpreted the Crash, Tonneau and Cintrée, Cartier puts its Tank Asymétrique, the fourth watch in the Cartier Privé collection, under the microscope. The model stands out with its slanted rectangular case and its triple-lug composition. Besides the regular production limited editions, the new collection also carries three 100-piece limited editions: pink gold with a brown or grey strap, platinum with a blue or black strap, and gem-set platinum version with a black or glossy blue strap – fitted with the skeletonised calibre 9623 MC. Punctuated by blue lacquer-filled Arabic numerals 12 and 6 as well as indexes, the skeleton movement architecture is revealed in full transparency.


Zenith Defy Classic Carbon

The new Zenith Defy Classic Carbon comes with a full carbon fibre case and an integrated carbon fibre bracelet, a previously uncharted territory for an automatic watch. Weigh in at a mere 65 grams, it sets a new benchmark in lightness – which is half as much as an equivalent model in titanium. In addition to the dark allure of the material as well as unabashedly futuristic and architectural design language, the skeleton watch is heightened by an openworked dial with a stylised grey fivepronged star motif and the automatic Elite 670 manufacture calibre that beats within which has also been given a dark treatment in ruthenium. Black tones aside, legibility is anything but compromised with bright green Super-LumiNova on the blackened hands and applied hour markers.


Girard- Perregaux Laureato Skeleton “Earth to Sky” Edition

Dubbed Laureato Skeleton “Earth to Sky” Edition, this Girard- Perregaux model manifests the science of watch finishing and that of materials in a new light, giving birth to a determinedly modern-day aesthetic. The sober 42mm black ceramic cushion-shaped case, with the famous octagonal bezel, is matched with an integrated bracelet whose black ceramic links have an alternating matte and satin surface finish. Well proportioned, the watch exhibits gentle curves with impeccably defined lines. As to the engine, it reveals the in-house GP01800- 1041 calibre that is entirely skeletonised that is beautifully finished with an angling to augment profiles and inner angles. The movement offers a comfortable 54-hour power reserve.


This story first appeared in the December/January 2021 issue of Men’s Folio Malaysia