Set against the electric backdrop of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the world’s leading watchmakers converge once more for the annual watchmaking showcase. With new creations and innovations aplenty, this year’s edition reaffirms Geneva as the undisputed capital of time. From headline-making novelties to quietly brilliant complications, here are the standout releases from Bvlgari, Grand Seiko, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, TAG Heuer, and Tudor.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37

At Watches & Wonders 2026, a new Octo Finissimo 37 emerges from Bvlgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo family. It is not a replacement but a direct descendant of the time-only Octo Finissimo Automatic lineage, as Bvlgari refined the existing blueprint further by reducing the original’s 40mm diameter to 37mm. The result is a shift from the extremes of record-breaking engineering to a nuanced expression of sprezzatura.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

Grand Seiko unveils its smallest dive watch yet with the Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. Ushio, which means tide, features a dial recreated with tidal patterns. Large handsets and hour indices consistent with Grand Seiko’s dive watches make an appearance, along with the power reserve indicator. After the U.F.A. calibre was unveiled last year, this was the opportune moment for Grand Seiko to redesign its dive watch thanks to the calibre’s smaller construction. The new Spring Drive Calibre 9RB1 is hand-assembled in the Shinshu Watch Studio and offers an astounding annual accuracy of ±20 seconds. Instead of stainless steel, Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver is housed in a 40.8mm High-Intensity Titanium case with a ceramic bezel rated to 300m water resistance and features a new locking extension clasp with micro-adjustment.

Hermès H08 Squelette

The Hermès H08 takes a technical and contemporary spin this year as the maison unveils the Hermès H08 Squelette. True to its namesake, the watch has been skeletonised to offer a radical contrast against its H08 counterparts. Instead of settling for a traditional brass movement, Hermès recreates it in skeletonised titanium. The result is an interplay between light and shadows, transparency and depth. Together with its 39mm titanium case, the Hermès H08 Squelette is almost weightless yet extremely strong at the same time.

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 42

Olive goes industrial. IWC Schaffhausen brings a bold new edge to its Gérald Genta-inspired icon, creating it for the first time ever in coloured ceramic. The bold move sees the Ingenieur Automatic 42’s case and bracelet rendered in dark olive green ceramic. A harmony of satin-brushed, polished, and sandblasted surfaces lends the watch a layered, distinctive character. Golden accents complement the case’s warm tones as IWC crafted the crown from 18-carat 5N gold and the bezel screws in 18-carat Armour Gold®. The watch is equipped with the IWC-manufactured 82110 calibre with Pellaton winding, delivering 60 hours of power reserve.

TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

TAG Heuer just reminded the watchmaking world of its serious chronograph-making capabilities with the launch of the Monaco Evergraph. After five years of development, the watchmaker introduces the revolutionary compliant chronograph mechanism developed by the TAG Heuer LAB. The Calibre TH80-00 removes traditional levers and springs used for chronograph start, stop, and reset functions and replaces them with two flexible bistable components: one governing start and stop, the other reset. Of TAG Heuer’s stacked family, the Monaco was the natural choice to be fitted with this revolutionary calibre, given its role in reshaping watchmaking codes when it was unveiled in 1969. The Monaco Evergraph is housed in a 40mm grade 5 titanium case with an open dial that reveals the front of the new calibre.

Tudor Royal 36

Of the pieces that Tudor has unveiled this year, my vote goes to the Tudor Royal 36 as the watchmaker’s sleeper hit for the year. All the attention will naturally drift towards the Monarch or Black Bay Ceramic, but Tudor has pulled out a serious value proposition. The big news is the introduction of the 70-hour power reserve Manufacture Calibre MT5412, tuned to -2/+4 seconds accuracy in line with chronometer certification. Aesthetically, the dark blue hour indices are a classy option against the light blue dial, creating a lovely tonal finish. With its 36mm diameter and 9.7mm-thick stainless steel case, the integrated bracelet is a strong differentiating factor against other watches in this price bracket.

Stay tuned this week for our Watches & Wonders 2026 coverage. Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our latest issue.