Demna

From Demna’s Gucci to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi and Andrea Pompilio’s Onitsuka Tiger, Milan’s SS27 season offered three very different answers to the same problem: how do you move a fashion house forward without sanding off what made us care about it in the first place?

Somewhere between optimisation and performance, masculinity lost its erotic charge.

We are past the point of pretending that “minimalist shifts” work for a house built on sex and scandals. Demna’s first real outing is cynical, derivative, and undeniably effective — a sharp-edged reminder that Gucci is at its best when it feels less like a brand and more like a threat.

Demna debuts under Gucci with a collection alive with characters, channelling a new “Gucciness” that revels in unapologetic sensuality.

For the first time since disassembling the fabric of street fashion, first with Vetements and now with Balenciaga, Demna has chosen to honour the inspiration that has helped form the person he has become for the Balenciaga Winter 2025 collection.

A carry-all to carry all.

Watch the latest collection by Demna at 7.30pm tomorrow.