Every time we turn a corner in the city, chances are we will come across a cafe, whether it’s a sleek urbanite setup or a friendly neighbourhood kopitiam (our own version of coffee shop, deriving from kopi [coffee in Malay] and tiam [shop in Hokkien]). Whichever the case, it would be a place to which people from all walks of life gravitate.
It could be a secondary school student ordering a creamy frappuccino in their school uniform after class. It could be a retired uncle having his daily cup of aromatic Hainanese coffee paired with slightly toasted kaya toast. Or it could be a working adult grabbing a quick hot latte for an instant energy boost.
Coffee is ubiquitous in almost all societies across the globe. There’s just no denying that many of us can barely begin our day without first downing a cuppa. Coffee drinking is so deeply woven into our daily lives that schedules get planned around coffee breaks.
From Kopitiams to Cafes
The origins of coffee in Malaysia can be traced all the way back to British colonial times. It was first introduced to Malaya (as Malaysia was known before gaining independence from the Crown) by the British during the 18th century — a time when drinking tea was all the rage, and coffee played second fiddle.
It wasn’t until the late 19th century that coffee began gaining the spotlight, thanks to Malaysia’s Hainanese Chinese community, who brought along their culinary customs to the region — including our all-time favourite, Hainanese coffee. The richly-textured brew, made of dark roasted Robusta and Liberica beans, is often sweetened with condensed milk.
However, coffee’s nouveau prime moment arrived in the 1990s, when international chains such as The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and Starbucks took over the local scene, transforming the coffee industry into a lucrative business.
Today, cafés are a comfortingly common sight in Kuala Lumpur, with at least one in nearly every neighbourhood. International coffee chains have marked their spots across Malaysia, from commercial giants like Starbucks and Dôme to premium establishments like Paris Baguette from South Korea, Bacha Coffee from Morocco, and Ralph’s Coffee from the United States.
Local players such as ZUS Coffee, Bask Bear and Gigi Coffee have also made their mark, dominating the Malaysian landscape with their indomitable presence — each boasting over 100 outlets nationwide.
The Rise of Indie Cafés
Just across the causeway lies a thriving cluster of independent cafes, established by fervent coffee lovers in Malaysia. One standout is ONO Specialty Coffee & Matcha, which is located in SS2, Petaling Jaya — a true crown jewel in the local brew scene. The café recently ranked ninth on The World’s 100 Best Coffee Shops list.
Known for its signature drink, When Two Worlds Collide, ONO Specialty Coffee & Matcha sets it apart from the sea of run-of-the-mill coffee shops with its innovative fusion of coffee and matcha. Behind the perfect cup is a team of specialists who live and breathe the craft: Shaun Liew, two-time Malaysia Brewers Cup Champion; Kent Wong, head roaster; and Syun Hattori, founder of Niko Neko Matcha.
“ONO is the world’s first specialty coffee and matcha cafe — that’s what makes us unique and special,” shares Shaun Liew, co-founder of ONO Specialty Coffee & Matcha. “We offer both specialty coffee & matcha at the same level, and even craft specialty drinks that combine both. Our tagline, When Two Worlds Collide, represents the world of coffee and matcha colliding, which also inspires our signature drink, a combination of Ethiopian coffee and cold brew soda layered with a single cultivar matcha cream.”
Also earning a spot on The World’s 100 Best Coffee Shops list is Ome by Spacebar Coffee, a frequented café tucked away in George Town, Pulau Pinang. Founded by Joachim Leong and Shean Tan with the goal of serving good coffee and bakes, Ome by Spacebar Coffee started as a pop-up in Kuala Lumpur before evolving into a full-fledged brick-and-mortar café. Today, it pampers every patron with an ever-rotating selection of premium coffee beans.
“We are a multi-roaster coffee bar, featuring coffees from all over the world, and we rotate them weekly,” Joachim explains. “This also gives coffee lover guests an opportunity to savour different beans each visit, while also maintaining a blend for our regulars. We mainly source from Malaysian roasters like One Half and The Roast Things in Kuala Lumpur, and Brewsmith and Sweet Blossom in Johor Bahru. We also take Square Mile Coffee and Exemplar Coffee from the UK, Apollon’s Gold from Japan and Prodigal Coffee from the US regularly.”
A Real Home for Coffee
The Malaysian coffee industry has seen tremendous growth, particularly among homegrown coffee brands. A decade ago, getting a good cup of coffee might have required going out of our way. Today, we are likely to run into the same café again just a few streets away. With Malaysians’ growing appetite for premium beverages and rising purchasing power, coffee has become a lifestyle staple rather than a luxury.
“Compared to many countries, we have indeed grown rapidly—from the kopitiam culture to specialty cafes that rival some of the best in the world. What is truly unique here is the blend of tradition and innovation— you can sip on a hand-brewed natural Ethiopia at the same street where someone’s pulling kopi from a sock. That’s beautiful,” says Shaun, who also hopes to see more Malaysian-grown beans gain global recognition.
“I think our local coffee culture is unique in the sense that people use coffee for productivity, leisure and also well for the ‘gram! If you look at the US and the UK, people there practically run on caffeine, having two to three cups a day. Whereas if you look at Taiwan and Japan, people linger in a cafe, have a coffee with a date or a book.
Somehow in Malaysia, we have a combo of everything. Our coffee places help people function through caffeine, offer a space to socialise, or just provide a little me time. And this can stretch from day to night,” shares Joachim.
Malaysia is not just a nation for coffee lovers, it’s also a significant producer of Liberica coffee, known for its earthy, smoky profile with nutty and floral undertones, and hints of dark chocolate and ripe berry. In fact, Liberica accounts for the majority of Malaysia’s domestic coffee production. Alongside Indonesia, and the Philippines, Malaysia is now one of the world’s top producers of the unique variety.
“Malaysia has potential, not just as a coffee-consuming nation, but as a coffee-producing one. We have the talent, the terroir, and the story. If we can channel the same energy we pour into coffee competitions into uplifting our local origins, producers, and industry roles, we could shape a uniquely Malaysian identity in the global coffee scene. And that is a future that I am really excited about,” Shaun adds.
A Necessity & An Artisan Craft
From modest kopitiams to thriving coffee chains, Malaysia’s coffee culture has grown from a humble agrarian industry into a burgeoning business. What was once merely a beverage choice has become an integral part of our lives. Whether it’s a nostalgia-evoking kopi or an aromatic pour-over, each cup offers more than just a drink — it celebrates the art of coffee making, tells the story of the people behind the craft and brings together those who simply enjoy a good cup of coffee.
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