Walk past any Aesop store, and chances are you will find yourself sneaking a quick pump of its iconic balms placed outside the stores, inviting you to moisten dry hands between hours of shopping. Popular as gifts and long regarded as symbols of good taste, Aesop products have always been celebrated for their ability to engage with the senses. From its apothecary-inspired packaging to its formulations, which not only perform but feel like a treat, the products are often coupled with aromatic, herbaceous scents and rich textures.
On a skincare shelf, one might sort products between two camps: the sterile, “no-nonsense” types, and the fun, sensory-driven options. When Aesop announced its brand-new Resolute Facial Concentrate, it piqued my curiosity about where this release might fit into a regular user’s roster.
“An evolution in Aesop skincare as the brand’s first formulation with a Retinoid,” the press release touted. Formulated with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) as a calmer, more stable alternative to the conventional Vitamin A derivative, squalene, sea fennel, and Cedar Atlas, it proves Aesop does not consider the oil-serum to be a casual, sensory-led part of one’s regime. Men’s Folio speaks to Sacha Salameh, Scientific & Valorisation Lead at Aesop, to understand what makes the brand-new Resolute Facial Concentrate oil-serum a breakthrough for smoother, strengthened skin.
WHAT IS AESOP’S PHILOSOPHY, ESPECIALLY IN TERMS OF SKINCARE THAT DIFFERS FROM OTHER LABELS?
At Aesop, we believe that skin in equilibrium is skin in optimum condition. Our approach is to help restore and maintain this equilibrium with specialised ranges that address specific skin needs, from soothing sensitive skin to antioxidant-based protection for urban dwellers. Through meticulous research and refinement, we bring together the best of science and nature to create formulations with a clear purpose, optimised for performance and sensory pleasure.
Our skincare is rooted in three qualities:
Efficacious: Our formulations are guided by rigorous research and composed of ingredients with proven benefits. Each product is developed with purpose and precision to target skin needs.
Skin-Caring: We take a considered approach to ingredient selection, favouring those that work in harmony with the skin. Products are designed for compatibility and comfort for a broad range of skin types.
Sensorial: We understand that sensorial pleasure and performance are of equal importance. Thoughtfully composed textures and aromas in each formulation offer a refined sensorial experience that complements its scientific efficacy.
IT TOOK A DECADE TO PERFECT THE FORMULA FOR THE RESOLUTE FACIAL CONCENTRATE. WHAT WERE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES?
Over decades, our mission has been to support the skin through life changes by providing the precise nutrients and vitamins it needs to maintain resilience and balance, rather than fighting against its natural transitions.
While we have always recognised the potency of retinoids for refining skin texture, we also observed the drawbacks — redness and irritation — which can disrupt the skin’s delicate equilibrium, so we chose to be patient. After years of searching, we found HPR to be a suitable ingredient for its potency, remarkable stability, and compatibility with the skin.
However, the Resolute Facial Concentrate is not defined solely by HPR; it is a synergy of actives meticulously designed to nourish the skin as it undergoes the natural process of ageing. We have carefully selected ingredients to precisely balance what mature skin begins to lack, too, while delivering the elevated sensoriality essential to Aesop products. The next challenge was defining the ideal delivery system. An oil-based formula was the most logical choice, not only to safeguard the stability of our key actives but also to provide the specific nourishment that mature skin requires.
Final stages of development were a study in precision, as we meticulously balanced various emollients to achieve a texture that is rich and sumptuous, yet never greasy, resulting in the equilibrium we see today.
WHAT PROUD MOMENTS DID YOU AND THE TEAM EXPERIENCE DURING THE PROCESS OF CREATING THE RESOLUTE FACIAL CONCENTRATE?
Resolute Facial Concentrate represents a pivotal moment in Aesop’s portfolio, marking our first venture into retinoid-based formulations using HPR. Designed for skin renewal and nourishment, it is the first product of our Resolute range dedicated to supporting ageing skin’s structural integrity. Ultimately, it honours our fundamental philosophy of blending performance, sensorial pleasure, and considered purpose into a formulation that is designed to meet the evolving needs of the skin.
RETINOIDS ARE OFTEN SEEN AS A “SOPHISTICATED” SKINCARE PRODUCT THAT SOME USERS MAY BE AFRAID TO USE, OUT OF CONCERN THAT IT WILL IRRITATE THEIR SKIN. WHEN WOULD YOU SAY IS A GOOD TIME TO START INCORPORATING RETINOIDS LIKE THE RESOLUTE FACIAL CONCENTRATE INTO THEIR ROUTINE?
The Resolute Facial Concentrate is suitable for a wide range of skin types, including sensitive skin, due to its minimal risk of irritation from HPR. It is a formulation designed to smooth and strengthen the skin, maintaining its optimum condition as it undergoes natural biological changes. To counterbalance the potential disruption often associated with retinoids, the formula incorporates a generous dose of nourishing oils — squalane and triolein — which are renowned emollients that reinforce the skin barrier and promote balance, while delivering the product’s unique, rich, comforting texture. Additionally, its warm and woody aroma, born from a blend of Cedar Atlas, patchouli, and frankincense, was selected for its calming and comforting profile.
For first-time retinoid users, we recommend starting with a small amount once every three nights and monitoring the skin’s response before gradually working up to once daily, then twice daily. Those who prefer may apply a light hydrator afterwards.
WHAT ARE SOME AESOP FAVOURITES THAT YOU THINK WOULD PLAY WELL WITH THE RESOLUTE FACIAL CONCENTRATE IN A SKINCARE ROUTINE?
At Aesop, we consider cleansing, toning and hydrating as foundational steps of any effective skincare routine. The Resolute Facial Concentrate integrates seamlessly into this regimen.
Cleanse: The Gentle Facial Cleansing Milk is an exceptionally gentle cleanser for daily use, enhanced with botanicals renowned for their soothing properties. It removes makeup effortlessly and rinses with ease.
Tone: The B & Tea Balancing Toner is a gentle blend enhanced with Provitamin B₅ and fortifying antioxidants. It balances the skin and prepares the skin for hydration.
Then, dispense three to five drops of Resolute Facial Concentrate into your hands and gently massage into the skin, spreading upwards with light, even motions. Despite its oil-serum texture, the formulation is pleasantly lightweight and easily absorbed, leaving a soft finish on the skin. Given its emollient agents, you can skip a moisturiser at night.
During the day, it is imperative to follow the application with broad-spectrum sun protection, such as the Protective Facial Lotion SPF50, a lightweight, rapidly absorbed SPF50 hydrator that provides broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB radiation.
The Resolute Facial Concentrate is now available in Aesop Signature Stores.
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