Louis Vuitton does not try to feign intellectualism when it comes to its collections. It does not aim to be complicated, nor does it need to be, either. With elaborate sets and familiar themes that draw from our collective culture, it thrives on scale and shared experiences. Across the collections since Pharrell’s reign, two things remain constant: the creative director is a bona fide maestro at bridging various art forms together; and that Louis Vuitton, as fashion’s biggest player, just needs to be beautiful and aspirational enough while being easily understood by its audience.
Set on a manmade beach, against a towering wall of waves that appears to be frozen in time, Louis Vuitton transports its audience to a seaside presentation. Pharrell’s neo-dandyism is now made for the beach. As models emerged from the tube of the wave, it became clear that the creative challenge was less about subverting summer dressing or giving a poignant perspective on nature; it was more about elevating their lexicon of silhouettes enough to feel fresh, but not towards the extent that it feels completely foreign — this thought process encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s approach to universality.
The usual suspects of a Louis Vuitton runway show have all been interpreted for a beachside escapade. Complete with a cap and the maison’s interpretation of the iconic Vans’ skate shoe, the signature single-breasted, three-button suit is now made possible for both the skate park and the beach. The slouchy Speedy P9s have also been updated with a kaleidoscope of finishes, from anemone-like embellishments to watercolour sunsets. Call it literal, call it obvious, but a heavy part of Louis Vuitton’s appeal comes down to its ability to heighten expectations rather than subverting them. If you would expect cowboy boots from a Western-inspired collection, then expect pieces from this collection to feature palm tree prints and conch-shaped novelty bags. The key accessory, however, comes in the form of branded surfboards that will soon be attached to G-Wagons across the globe.
There is a fine line to strike between being predictable and being lucid. Louis Vuitton manages to propose a collection that feels accessible conceptually, but far from being basic and replicable. Luxury already feels far-fetched, so why not give the world a piece of fantasy that actually feels relatable?
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