Jonathan Anderson believes kids are dressing up again. Dior’s SS27 collection follows that same instinct. Last season wanted to provoke. This one simply gets dressed and heads out the door.
That instinct reshapes Dior’s own wardrobe. The Bar jacket feels lighter and less ceremonial. The new Bobby suit, inspired by a vintage Marc Bohan jacket, appears in whisper-light chiffon, while shawl-collared tailoring slips comfortably between eveningwear, dressing gowns and everyday clothes. The house codes are still there, but somehow, they don’t feel uptight anymore.
The archive follows the same logic. The silver sequined trousers immediately recall Hedi Slimane’s legendary SS06 jeans, while the leaner proportions carry faint echoes of his Dior Homme. Yet Anderson never lets those references take over. They’re folded naturally into the collection rather than becoming larger than the clothes themselves.
The styling keeps reinforcing the same idea. Glitter sits beside tailoring. Distressed denim meets formal shirting. Shoes become slimmer and quieter, while the bags resist becoming statement pieces. It’s fashion that’s realistic, slightly campy, but unmistakably romantic.
And that’s what makes SS27 feel more resolved than Anderson’s previous collections for the house. Instead of presenting one archetype after another, this time, he lets them overlap. The aristocrat borrows from the raver. The formal dresser steals from the romantic.
After the show, Anderson said he wasn’t interested in creating a “totemic” look. It’s probably the clearest way to understand this collection. Rather than searching for one defining silhouette, he’s building a wardrobe where no single piece needs to explain everything.
Three collections in, Anderson no longer seems interested in proving he understands Dior’s history. He’s more interested in showing what that history can become once it’s actually worn, mixed and lived in by us. Fashion usually remembers the one look everyone talks about. Jonathan Anderson seems happier creating the wardrobe people keep coming back to. For the first time, those feel like the same thing.
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