Bell & Ross has always held a certain aesthetic, and it has done so unapologetically. Because of that, there is no mistaking the Bell & Ross aesthetic for any other brand, and this applies throughout all the watchmaker’s offerings. Each shape, be it the rectangle, triangle, or octagon, has been staked by one brand or another, and the circle-in-a-square silhouette will always be Bell & Ross’.
And for 2025, it seems like Bell & Ross is growing its claim by offering the BR-05 36mm range of watches, effectively thrusting its iconic timepieces into more markets while staying true to its DNA. First off, this means more accessibility to a variety of wrist sizes, given how square watches wear bigger than the traditional round ones. Secondly, the dial options available for this model do soften the cockpit instrument aesthetic that the brand is going for.
Speaking of dial options, the four available choices for the BR-05 36mm are: sunray black, sunray grey, sunray ice blue, and mother-of-pearl. It is a simple, three-handed watch which tells the time and nothing else. There is an elegance that comes with simplification, which is why many dress watches forgo complications altogether. The BR-05 does not try to be a dress watch, but it is dressier than its counterparts thanks to the chic minimalism and the omission of clutter, such as a minute track.
Powering the watch is the automatic BR-CAL.329, which features a 54-hour power reserve at 28,800 vph. There are no extra frills involved in this movement, but having that much power reserve at that smoother — and arguably more accurate, when compared to 21,600 vph or lower — frequency rate bestows the watch with these tiny benefits.
Despite its size, the watch feels hefty in hand. That could be credited to the full steel build, which includes the integrated bracelet. The steel is mostly brushed, with polished centre links. This finishing, combined with the sunray effect (or the textured mother-of-pearl) of the dial provides a net result of formality rather than utility, which is rather surprising, especially coming from a tool-like brand like Bell & Ross.
Simply put, this is a watch that is easy to pull off, no matter the occasion. We suspect the dimensions also have something to do with this. And it is not just the diameter, but the thickness as well, because on that scale, it measures only 8.5mm. More than enough to remain surreptitious on the list and also slip under a sleeve.
Bell & Ross has always offered larger-sized watches, with the selections today veering more towards 40mm and up. But this 36mm offering promises more than aesthetics. It showcases the brand’s ability to change, and who knows which other models will see a size overhaul in the coming years? Only time will tell if Bell & Ross will venture into varying watch sizes, especially those of the svelte variety. Until then, we have this wonderful BR-05 to keep us satiated.
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