Go Big or Go Home - Men's Folio Malaysia

Go Big or Go Home

Men’s Folio spotlights watchmakers that don’t apologise for what they do best, bringing together timepieces driven by innovation, precision, heritage and sustainability to reflect where modern watchmaking is heading.

By Aqeil Aydin

Career High in Heritage

Distinguished from the rest, Franck Muller’s Vanguard Sport is a unique perspective on how the heritage and craftsmanship of watchmaking crosspollinates with sports.

Presented as an Asia Pacific Exclusive, the timepiece refines the maison’s signature tonneau silhouette into a confident, contemporary statement. Its V43 stainless steel case, hand-polished to emphasise its sculptural curves, frames a dial defined by a brushed finish and striking sun guilloché pattern that radiates from the centre, catching light with every movement.

Each appliqué numeral is meticulously painted and set by hand, underscoring the house’s dedication to detail. Paired with an alligator leather strap featuring contrast stitching and a rubber underside, the watch balances elegance with everyday resilience.

Powering it is the MVD 2536-SCDT automatic movement, offering a 42- hour power reserve and finished with refined decorative techniques. The Vanguard Sport ultimately stands as a versatile companion, merging bold design with functional sophistication fit for a sportsman.

Winter Technicians

Leading up to a goal conceived over two decades, the reveal of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 is one that revels in technological advancements.

Developed with the idea of blending the traditional energy of a mainspring with modern watchmaking techniques, the Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 received the U.F.A. designation, which stands for “Ultra Fine Accuracy.” With an annual rate of ±20 seconds, it is the most accurate wristwatch movement powered by a mainspring.

The movement is used in the Evolution 9 SLGB003, housed within its new Ever-Brilliant Steel, a stainless-steel alloy with exceptional corrosion resistance and a bright hue. The Shinsu region of Central Japan, where the watches were meticulously crafted, serves as an origin of inspiration. From the textured dials that represent dawn breaking over the frost-covered forest, to the sapphire crystal case back inspired by the region’s winter atmosphere, Grand Seiko continues to instil the belief that its mastery of innovation does not need to sacrifice the beauty of its designs.

All Around The World

Reimagining the art of travel within an Art Deco icon, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic turns the reversible case into a stage for modern horological ingenuity. Powered by the new in-house Calibre 834, it integrates a world time complication with a patented Grande Date — a sophisticated pairing engineered to fit the Reverso’s slender rectangular proportions without compromise.

Rather than following convention, the watch presents global time through a fixed city ring and a rotating 24- hour disc on the reverse dial, offering intuitive legibility and a dynamic sense of motion. A three-dimensional lacquered world map, laser-cut and hand-finished, adds depth and artisanal character to the display. Available in steel and limited pink gold editions with Casa Fagliano straps, the Tribute Geographic places technical intelligence at the forefront. It stands out by transforming a historic design into a contemporary traveller’s tool, where architecture and innovation align perfectly.

Ingenuity Down Below

With ambitions to push the boundaries of the deep sea, OMEGA’s 4th generation Planet Ocean advances the technical language of the modern dive watch. Twenty years after its debut, the collection returns slimmer and flatter at 13.79mm, re-engineered with a newly structured two-part case and an inner titanium ring that reinforces its 600m water-resistance. Borrowed insight from the Ultra Deep project informs this architecture, translating extreme dive innovation into everyday reliability.

For the first time in the collection’s history, the helium escape valve has been removed, streamlining the silhouette while preserving professional-grade performance. A screwin Grade 5 titanium caseback replaces the see-through sapphire crystal, reducing weight while enhancing structural strength. Even its vivid orange ceramic bezel represents years of material refinement, achieving a notoriously difficult hue in zirconium oxide.

Powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, the Planet Ocean meets METAS-certified standards of precision and magnetic resistance, proving that true innovation lies as much beneath the surface as above it.

Clarity Amid Speed

Distilling six decades of racing heritage into a sharper contemporary form, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph expands the glassbox legacy with a heightened focus on clarity, proportion, and mechanical performance. Now presented in a 41mm case, the watch introduces a complementary size that amplifies wrist presence while preserving the purity of Jack Heuer’s original vision.

The defining glassbox sapphire crystal curves seamlessly over the dial and flange, creating depth and a panoramic sense of legibility that draws the eye directly to the chronograph counters. A clean, date-free layout reinforces this commitment to clarity, allowing the monochromatic azurage subdials and tachymeter scale to stand out with intuitive precision. Every detail, from the refined typography to the revived seven-row bracelet, underscores balance and coherence.

At its core is the in-house TH20-01 movement, equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch for smooth, precise chronograph engagement, alongside an 80-hour power reserve. The Carrera refines the art of readable timing, placing legibility and mechanical integrity firmly at the forefront.

Sand and Steel

Rooted in expedition history yet sharpened for modern extremes, the new TUDOR Ranger polishes the idea of the pure tool watch. Expanding the lineup with a new 36mm case and a matte “Dune white” dial, the Ranger doubles down on its defining principle: simplicity as strength. In environments where complexity invites failure, this watch is engineered to endure.

Its satin-brushed steel case, domed dial with bold Arabic numerals, and signature Ranger hands prioritise instant legibility. At the same time, the COSC-certified Manufacture Calibres MT5400 and MT5402 deliver robust precision with a silicon balance spring and a 70-hour “weekendproof” power reserve.

Featuring a rapid-adjust T-fit clasp and 100m water resistance, it stands out as a watch built for reliability. With a design meant to function far from the easygoing nature of city life, it stands out by embracing purposeful minimalism, proving that true capability lies in dependable simplicity.

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