You can always tell when someone goes through a major life transformation. Breakups and midlife crises sometimes summon a need for newness. A new hobby, a sudden, random fixation, or a shocking new hairdo. How many times have you seen someone go blonde and immediately think, “Oh, breakup?” As the new year symbolises new beginnings for many, breaking out beyond just a usual haircut could tint the coming months with a new hue.
Less permanent than a tattoo, more instant than a new fitness regimen, a new hair colour becomes an impactful option to change up your appearance. To guide you through the different options before you run off to grab a bottle of box dye from your nearest pharmacy, Men’s Folio chats with hair artists Juno Ko and Damon Ting of Noting Salon in Kuala Lumpur and Rudy Herman of Hairstuff in Singapore on the different ways to play with hair colour.
SETTLING IT ONCE FOR ALL: WHAT IS THE BEEF WITH BOX DYES?
Colouring one’s hair happens by depositing pigment onto the hair. “Different types of dyes — temporary, semi, demi, permanent — all have varying levels of longevity. For instance, temporary colours fade after one or two washes, while permanent dyes alter the hair colour long term,” explains Rudy. On a deeper level, these different dyes also have different application techniques, pH levels, abilities to break down natural pigments, and colour brilliance. Bleaching, specifically, is the method used to achieve blond hues, pastels and vivid tones by removing melanin from the hair.
Given the intricacies — and straight-up chemistry — involved in the process of lifting and depositing pigments, it is less about box dyes replacing the hair grooming industry, but more about how the convenience is sold to customers at a price of inefficient results.
“Box dyes use universal, high-pigment formulas that often result in banding and uneven oxidation,” shares Juno. “Stylists discourage box dyes because they rely on aggressive, single-level developers that disregard one’s hair porosity and history, resulting in unpredictable tonal build-up. Professional colour is precisely formulated and customised to maintain the integrity of the hair.” Damon adds.
WHAT ARE THE BOYS GETTING DONE THESE DAYS
Rather than the (unintentionally-achieved) brassy browns that most first at-home dye jobs typically happen upon graduating from school, the limitless nature of hair dyes, coupled with bleaching techniques, have given boys a myriad of options to play with.
Across their clients at Noting and Hairstuff, the stylists have observed different trends, from cool-toned browns, silver-hued blonds, to colours that do not involve bleaching. “Less about trends driven by single tones, we consider the client’s overall style, including how he dresses, his personality and skin tone. Someone with a clean, minimal wardrobe may often suit cool neutrals, like ash brown or graphite, while someone with a bold, fashion-forward style may carry platinum blond, muted fashion tones or high-contrast highlights well,” Juno explains. The goal is to ensure the hue enhances his identity, rather than overpowering it.
A PRESCRIPTIVE APPROACH TO DYE JOBS
Not all hair colouring jobs are created equal, nor are they meant to convey the same goals as the hairstyles of Hollywood and Hallyu stars you see on the red carpet. If you are looking to conceal greying hair, explore grey-blending highlights. “It’s a highlighting technique that blends and softens the appearance of grey hair, rather than covering it for a natural, seamless look,” Rudy shares. Colour-wise, Damon recommends exploring a range of shades, from dark-to-medium browns, ash blonds, to plant-based colours like henna. Alternatively, tonal glazing (that involves coating the hair with a sheer wash of colour) and scalp micropigmentation have been effective alternatives to complement greying locks.
For those looking to achieve the appearance of fuller hair, try highlights. “Through root shading and controlled micro-highlights, we can create the look of depth and density, resulting in the illusion of fuller hair,” explains Juno. “As highlighting is about strategically placing lighter strands throughout the hair, the hair looks more voluminous from the added dimension,” Rudy adds on.
Not crazy about spending hours at the salon, subjecting your scalp to the harsh oxidation processes from bleaching? Non-bleach colours can still achieve a spectrum of subtle, yet impactful hues, based on your preference for warm or cool hues. Based on our darker natural hair colours, one could explore warm, reddish browns like burgundy, dark cherry, mahogany, to cool-toned colours like dark plum, deep violet and navy.
COLOURS FOR THE CURIOUS
If the blond ambition persists, it is important to proceed with reasonable caution. Damon and Juno both explain the importance of stylists to assess the integrity and condition of the hair prior — whether it has undergone previous chemical treatments, and the scalp’s level of sensitivity. “I make sure they haven’t gone through rebonding, dyed their hair black or over-bleached it before,” Damon emphasises. Hair that has been previously dyed would require additional processes to strip the hair of those additional pigments, further damaging the hair. “Customers need to get proper hair treatments after bleaching. It is also important to try and not bleach the scalp. After bleaching, hair cuticles are lifted to allow chemicals to penetrate the hair shaft, and with repeated bleaching, they can become permanently raised, leading to a more porous, dry, bittle texture that is prone to breakage,” Rudy explains.
What makes a flattering hue? Juno looks to the undertones of the individual, citing that ashy and icy palettes suit cool-toned individuals more, while caramel, coppery shades complement warm-toned individuals more. Skin-wise, warm undertone typically features a golden, yellow or peachy tint while a cool undertone is usually determined by a pink or red hue to the skin. If you are somewhere in between, you could have a neutral undertone that allows you to explore a wider range of shades. Beyond just trendy colour analyses, what matters most is a colour that fits the individual’s lifestyle and personality. “This also includes whether or not they are prepared for maintaining the colour and the health of their hair after,” says Rudy.
Before any chemical treatments, a well-trained stylist will properly assess scalp and hair health — considering colour history, chemical exposure, the hair’s porosity, elasticity and the scalp’s condition to determine if the desired results are achievable without compromising the hair fibre. “Beyond just assessing the willingness to maintain, clients also need to consider whether their work environment allows dramatic transformations to the hair,” shares Damon.
COLOUR MAINTENANCE
To maintain the hair colour, the artists recommend using colour-safe haircare products, like sulfate-free cleansers. Focus on nourishing the hair with products that moisturise the hair fibres and repair the cuticles. Additionally, reduce the frequency of hair washes, avoid washing with hot water, styling with heat and always apply heat and UV protection. For more advanced care, talk to your stylists about scalp treatments that deeply cleanse and soothe it.
Damon @damonting and Juno @juuu.ko are co-founders of Noting Salon @notingofficial
Rudy is a stylist at Hairstuff @hairstuffsg
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