It’s barely been a week since Geneva Watch Days 2025 took place in Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, Geneva, and the watches on display were enough to send watch fans into a frenzy. There was a mix of the expected and unexpected, releases that both delighted and surprised. Here are some of the picks that the Men’s Folio team has its eyes on.

Swinging sixties

Zenith brings back the nostalgic aesthetics of the 1960s through its collaboration with USM Modular Furniture. The 37.3mm case maintains its octagonal shape from the 1960s, with four different dial colours which pay tribute to USM’s signature shades: USM Gentian Blue, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Green. The square hour markers and iconic ladder bracelet remain true to the watch’s original design as well, and with its limited edition run of 60 pieces per colour, only a handful of fans will be able to enjoy this celebration of the past.

Finite meets infinite

Bvlgari’s dialogue with the arts continues with Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan. The maison’s Octo Finissimo becomes the canvas for one of Lee’s key works: the contrast between a rock – static and limited – and the infinite reflections of a mirror. The former is expressed through the hand distressed and finished Octo Finissimo faceted titanium case, while the latter through a mirrored dial. Lee Ufan’s signature is visible on the transparent case back of the 150-piece limited edition Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bvlgari.

Astro-lutely interesting

The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer takes to space with its unique interpretation of the moon phase complication. In fact, this complication takes up a good amount of the 39mm dial, with double-sided arrows pointing to the illustrations and terms of the moon phases simultaneously. It runs on the well-known Calibre 7 movement, with 50 hours of power reserve. This watch comes in three versions: black-and-silver with a stainless steel bracelet, grey and green with a leather strap, and a silver-and-rose-gold dial with a two-toned bracelet. The latter two models are limited to 500 pieces.

Sum of its parts

Classical watchmaking takes a contemporary twist in Frederique Constant’s lineup as the manufacture’s Classics Premiere collection is decked in pastel shade of Bermuda grey. Much of the watch’s styling remains distinctively rooted in the age-old canons with period accurate elements. Pomme hands from the mid-eighteenth century, rail track minute from 1920s Art Deco period and Arabic numerals typical of the twentieth-century are joined by a newly designed five-link bracelet that marks a first for this collection. 

Reaching new heights

Oris surprises fans with its latest collaboration, resulting in the Oris x Bamford Watch Department ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’, limited to 250 pieces. This 47mm timepiece may seem hefty on paper, but it looks just at home when used as intended — flying, hiking, or mountaineering. Besides, its carbon-fibre composite case makes it a comfortable wear, being as light as plastic yet stronger than many metals. The altimeter measures altitudes up to 19,700 feet separately from the main movement, which is the Number Oris 793, with a power reserve of 56 hours.

Microartistry

Louis Erard reinterprets microelectronics into art through a collaboration with Sylvie Villa and Mark Miehlbradt of Wire Art. The 99-piece limited edition creation taps into machines that once wired the digital world of microchips into pieces of art on the wrist. The Louis Erard x Wire Art watch sees 2,320 24k gold threads soldered to 3,660 solder points to create isometric cubes across the black lacquered dial and a trompe-l’œil illusion in pure gold. 

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