Franck Muller has spoiled its fans for the World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH) 2025 by offering a multitude of watches with varying complications and designs in its different iconic cases. The Vanguard saw five new novelties this year, each with its own distinct angle. But there is no better way to showcase opposing vibes in the same case than by highlighting the Vanguard Sfumato Slim and the Vanguard Royal Bauxite side-by-side.
Vanguard Sfumato Slim
The term sfumato revolves around its soft gradient. Design-wise, this gradient grows brighter as approaches the centre of the dial. This leaves a dark frame on the outer peripherals of the watch, almost like a vignette photo. All the better to frame the baton hands and seconds sub-dial with.
The Vanguard Sfumato Slim comes in four selections of colour, all of which would pair well with a formal suit. Then there are the added details that subtly add character to the watch, such as the Côtes de Genève finishing on the bridges and rotor plate, as well as perlage on the main plate.
To get some technicalities out of the way, this movement sports a 42-hour power reserve. Dimensions-wise, the watch measures 41mm by 49.95mm, and while that may sound like it leans towards the larger side, there is a lot that contributes to the watch looking daintier than it actually is.
Perhaps it is the 9.1mm thickness. Or maybe it is the thin stick indexes and the use of a seconds sub-dial. The vignette could be playing a role there as well. On the other end, we have a sportier expression of the Vanguard.
Vanguard Royal Bauxite
Enter the Vanguard Royal Bauxite, which pays tribute to aluminium. While the word ‘bauxite’ may ring a bell to those who know a thing or two about minerals and elements — it is an ore from which aluminium is derived — this watch also gets its namesake from the village of Les Baux in France, where bauxite was first identified.
Besides the play on words, the Vanguard Royal Bauxite also sets itself apart through its more rugged presence compared to the Sfumato Slim variety. Even with similar dimensions, the skeleton dial and bold colours speak of a timepiece that is dynamic instead of subdued. These bold colours are a result of the special aluminium alloy that Franck Muller uses, which allows for stronger anodisation.
There is also another interesting choice the watchmaker has made, and that is providing a robust power reserve of 70 hours, which is done by tuning the vibrations per hour to 18,000. That is more than enough to last a weekend off the wrist, which is always a plus in any watch collector’s book. Round this watch off with nylon straps instead of the Vanguard Sfumato Slim’s leather straps, and you have all the more reason why this makes for a great utilitarian choice — albeit a premium one — for any watch fan’s collection.
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